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View from the Cellar |
The “Montana” Vendimia Seleccionada bottling from Legado del Moncayo hails from vineyards growing up the side of the volcano, with the vines ranging from forty to sixty years of age now. Unlike the regular bottling, the Montana is raised in used French casks for eight months prior to bottling. The wine offers up a wilder personality, from the combination of the older vines and the higher elevation, with the 2019 delivering scents of dark berries, spit-roasted game, pepper, garrigue, stony minerality, bonfire and a touch of celery seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full and very nicely balanced, with a good core, ripe tannins, lovely focus and grip and a long, complex and still light on its feet finish. This has a bit broader shoulders than the regular bottling, as well as just a bit more tannin, but it shares the same exceptional value, as this excellent bottle of Garnacha retails in the US for $15 a bottle! 2023-2040.
John Gilman - Issue #91 / February 2021 |
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Wine Review Online |
I’ve never tasted a vintage of this special, upper elevation selection from
Legado del Moncayo that I didn’t love, and the 2019 keeps that string alive. Always darker, deeper, and slightly plusher in feel than the (freshly delicious) regular bottling, it nevertheless remains quite lithe and lovely. There are, as usual, some black cherry notes in this bottling to go along with the red ones, and the overall proportions of fruit sweetness, acidity and tannin are just right. I’ve placed this on the wine list of all the restaurants for which I consult in multiple vintages, and the 2019 is a very strong candidate indeed.
Michael Franz – Issue: December 1, 2020 |
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