| 93 |
Wine Review Online |
Although white wine from the north-west corner of Spain is dominated by Albariño in the minds of most casual wine lovers, Godello can be every bit as interesting and delicious — or even more so. This wine provides a case in point, and also shows that the D.O. of Valdeorras is not the only region that can make superb renditions of the variety. Unlike many upstart producers outside of Valdeorras, the fruit source for this is a 60-year-old vineyard in Bierzo, which certainly contributes to its exceptional quality. Godello is often medium-bodied and leaning toward full (as in this bottling from Luna Beberide), with very satisfying richness on the palate and an almost creamy texture. Thankfully, the wine’s acidity is up to the task of keeping the wine fresh rather than ponderous or heavy, and it finishes with clarity despite an enduring sense of ripeness. The fruit recalls ripe pears and baked apples, with an underlying streak of saline minerality that contributes very significantly to the wine’s layered character and complexity. For those who don’t know good Godello, the closest wine as a point of comparison might be excellent Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige in Italy (though I grant that that comparison may not be very helpful because top bottlings of Pinot Bianco are barely any better known than Godello). So, please take my word on this: it is difficult to image anyone who would not enjoy this wine. It is very pleasant to sip on its own, but it would also pair very well with almost any fish preparation as well as richer shellfish dishes based on crab or lobster, and could easily do well with a roast chicken for those who prefer white wine with that staple main course. If my score is off at all, I missed on the low side.
Wine Review Online; Michael Franz; August 13, 2025. |
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View from the Cellar |
Alejandro Luna makes absolutely beautiful red wines, but it seems that people sometimes
overlook just how stunning his white wines are as well. His Godello is made from sixty year-old
vines, grown on soils of chalk and crumbling slate. The wine is fermented and raised in stainless
steel tanks. The 2024 version is excellent, offering up a complex and vibrant bouquet of pear,
apple, a complex base of almost salty soil tones, gently musky orange blossoms and raw almond
in the upper register. On the palate the wine is crisp, bright and full-bodied, with a lovely core of
fruit, fine soil undertow, a zesty spine of acidity and lovely focus and grip on the long, complex
and beautifully balanced finish. This is first class Godello! 2025-2035.
John Gilman, Issue 117, May– June 2025 |
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| 89 |
Wine Spectator |
Soft and round, this is animated by orange peel acidity and a light tang of salinity. Layers a leesy overtone with flavors of macerated white cherry, poached apricot, caraway seed and vanilla. Distinctive. Drink now. 4,444 cases made, 500 cases imported.
Wine Spectator; Alison Napjus -October 31, 2025 |
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Luna Beberide Godello